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CALGARY — Beard is a able attribute of identity. How a actuality chooses to appearance their beard says a lot about them. But for abounding Black people, there is a circuitous accord to their hair. The complect and complect of accustomed beard is amidst by a countless of agitated affections — anxiety, embarrassment, frustration.

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“Growing up my beard wasn’t article I was appreciative of … it wasn’t article I would abrasion out,” Badria Abubaker said.

She remembers actuality young, accepting addition blow her beard and acquaint her “this is what I appetite my rug to feel like.” She was devastated.

From again she banned to acquire to abrasion her beard in its accustomed accompaniment in public. She’d use acute calefaction to annihilate her curls and accomplish them lay flat. In university, with the acceleration of pro-Black beard on amusing media, she boring started to acquire her accustomed hair.

Abubaker, a Mount Royal University journalism student, spent a division alive on a abbreviate documentary alleged Black Hair, which looks at bristles Black Calgarians’ circuitous accord with their hair. On Tuesday, she’ll acquire her additional examination of the documentary.

The 20-minute documentary focus on altered issues that beleaguer Black beard — from appropriation, to stereotypes and fetishization.

Abubaker said the project, which spanned months of filming, accent the accepted adventures that appear with accepting Black hair.

“We all went through the aforementioned acquaintance of actuality young, sitting amid your mother's legs, accepting that attic ripped out of your head, accepting your mom complect your hair, activity to academy and accepting best on. It’s article that resonated deeply.”

Adora Nwofor was built-in and aloft in Calgary in the backward 1970s. She grew up in a time area kids causally would alarm her the N-word on the playground.

She abstruse in daycare that her tightly-coiled beard was not desirable. Aback she approved aggravating out African beard styles, she was relentlessly teased.

“My mom was absolutely focused on us actuality presentable. The alone Black folks, we got to attending acceptable because we are the models of the minority. Everybody looks to us,” Nwofor said.

“It was traumatizing a lot of times aback that one beard comes out, the gel doesn’t break or it flakes.”

When she was growing up, she said there were no salons in the burghal who knew how to do Black beard and absolutely alone three beard articles advised for Afro hair.

“Imagine — now there’s complaints now (about abridgement of products), but aback I was 14 years old and accomplishing my beard by myself there was Dax, Blue Magic and Pink Lotion or a Jerry curl,” Nwofor said.

“There was not a lot of articles aback we were younger, so if you didn’t acquire the ‘good hair’ it was a problem.”

Nwofor said beard has been botheration in every angle of her activity — from adventurous relationships to accumulated jobs to modelling gigs.

At work, she would apprehension the way bodies would amusement her if her beard was beeline and aback she wore it natural. Her beard was generally a hot affair of conversation. Employers would advance she try straightening her hair.

“I absolutely had a accessory seek me out to alarm me out on my beard to prove to bodies it was a wig or complect or whatever she believed it to be,” Nwofor said.

“So she absolutely came up abaft me and started affairs up my beard from the aback of my arch to analysis and see if there was tracks.”

There’s a address of administration Black beard for assertive situations, said Larissa Crawford, an anti-racism adviser and Indigenous action intern with the government of Ontario.

“When I’m accomplishing anti-racism action and training or assignment and I go into a allowance area there’s all white bodies … I admit what I’m adage is already blame them with their abundance zones,” Crawford said, who generally wears her beard in a glassy ponytail for these sorts of meetings.

“After I’ve gotten into the spaces that I charge to get in to, that’s aback I accomplish a point of cutting my beard out. Once I’ve caked my position in those spaces, that’s aback I affirmation my character and that’s aback I affirmation my Blackness.”

Crawford spent best of her adolescence in Lethbridge, Alta. The aboriginal time bodies evidently fabricated her feel altered about her beard was in fourth grade, aback she confused to the town.

“My mom could never booty us to get our beard done anywhere in Lethbridge because they would accomplish us feel so bad about our hair,” Crawford said.

“I bethink this in elementary and average school, I sat in the advanced of the chic and the boys in the aback would bandy erasers and pencils at my hair. They would acquire a point arrangement for whoever got the best ashore in my hair. It was so bad.”

In the seventh brand Crawford started cutting weaves. She noticed instantly the absorption boys would appearance her aback her beard was continued and straight.

“Growing up, I never saw Black women abrasion their accustomed hair, abnormally in Lethbridge, and I never saw that in any ads, any TV shows,” Crawford said.

“It wasn’t until I was 18 and I confused out to Toronto for school, I had never apparent women abrasion their accustomed beard out like they do in Toronto.”

In 2015, she became abundant with her daughter, Zyra, and that was the agitator to alive her angle on her hair.

“I absolutely started cerebration about my own cocky angel and how I attending at myself and how that will appulse my kid … I started talking how I feel about my beard so abundant added actively because it’s activity to anon appulse how Zyra sees her hair.”

Nwofor is actual appreciative of her hair, admitting the struggles her accouchement face annul her.

“(My son) grew his beard until he was six years old, and I’d complect it and he went to academy and they were blowing him at academy and addition cut it. Here in Calgary,” Nwofor said.

“My babe had cornrows with extensions in it and a little babe was affairs on it, aggravating to cull it off her arch and biting her cogent her ‘your beard is fake’ and pulled my daughters beard so adamantine that yes a allotment of my daughters beard came out.”

Nwofor said she never wants her kids to abhorrence their accustomed hair.

“I try to let them apperceive that your amount is not based on your beauty. You are the best admirable bodies on this apple because I am your mama,” Nwofor said.

“That being, said you don’t owe anyone beautiful, you don’t owe anyone presentable, you don’t owe anyone ethnocentric ethics — that’s not our standard. Your beard is acceptable hair, it’s beautiful.”

Catch Abubaker’s documentary, Black Hair, at Madison’s 1212 on Oct. 30 at 6.30. For added information, appointment the Facebook page.

Mary Getaneh is a Calgary-based anchorman accoutrement arts, ability and diversity. Follow her on Twitter: @marygetaneh

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